The capacity of Jay Rayner’s kitchen chiffonier are a little disappointing. “It’s aloof old crockery,” he says, as we associate through the anguish of his south London kitchen to the plates and bowls within.
On the added hand, Radio 4’s The Kitchen Cabinet, Rayner’s account appearance about aliment – a array of Gardener’s Question Time for the culinary-minded – is abounding of things that bodies like so abundant that it’s in its tenth alternation and accomplishing rather well.
Though conceivably not absolutely as able-bodied as the 49-year-old aliment writer, broadcaster, casual applesauce pianist and restaurant analyst suggests. “Over two actor bodies accept to Kitchen Cabinet,” he says. “And that’s a bourgeois figure.”
Two million? “Yes, the Saturday aperture gets amid 900,000 and 1.1 million. The Tuesday aperture 600,000.” And the added 400,000? “Oh, we get that off-broadcast.” Seeing I’m not absolutely convinced, he says, “Radio admirers abstracts are not as blithely done as TV. It tends to be little old ladies.”
Before I can ascertain absolutely what the little old ladies accept to do with it, Rayner has confused on to aliment on TV. He brand a lot of it: “Bake Off: nice bodies broil cakes, accept an affecting time. MasterChef: bodies baker actuality and cipher dies.”
But not all of it: “That affair back ITV put MasterChef calm with Broil Off and came up with Britain’s Best Dish – Simon Cowell’s aggregation did it in affiliation with Optimum and it died on its feet. I auditioned for it.” Did you get it? “I had a actual advantageous escape. It was aloof awful.”
He’s a fan of Jamie Oliver’s campaigns – “a actual able man” – and supports the amoroso tax. He’s beneath agog on Old Etonian Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall: “He’s aloof too blood-soaked chic to address bodies on low budgets about the bulk they absorb on chicken.”
Rayner has recorded “close on 200 films” for The One Appearance but no best gets alive slots. The aftermost time he looked, “There was Nadiya Begum actuality ablaze and I thought, ‘If I was allotment editor, I apperceive who I’d accept if it was a best amid the absolute woman from a arresting indigenous boyhood a backward middle-aged white man.’ ”
Today he looks as acceptable as a goatee-wearing backward middle-aged guy accustomed a bit of weight possibly can look, but he was already far heavier. “At my biggest, which was about 2007, I got to a 54-inch chest,” he says. “I was 25 bean with a 45-inch waist. Now I’m a 38-inch waist, and that’s fine.”
He’s consistently been a big eater. His mother, affliction aunt Claire Rayner, and father, the artisan Des Rayner, were big eaters as well. “They came from a meagre background,” he says. “They didn’t accept much, went athirst and were bent that that would not be revisited on their kids, which led to all of us accepting weight problems [Rayner has a brother and a sister]. The table was consistently full. It is a Jewish trait.”
Ask him how Jewish he is and Rayner jokes. “I am culturally Jewish. I analyze with noisiness and assertive outsiderism. At one point I anticipation I’d alone feel adequate if I confused to New York, afresh I realised I wouldn’t like it at all – too abounding Jews.” Although he didn’t abound up in the adumbration of the holocaust, as a adolescent he would apprehension the affected cardinal that had been tattooed on his uncle’s arm at Auschwitz.
“My mother talked actual little about it until later, back I became added interested,” Rayner says of the Holocaust. “She said that back it started advancing out there were amazing animosity of answerability amid the arctic west London Jewish community. But it was all actual abundant beneath the apparent compared to some of the added households I knew.”
The adolescent Rayner went to absolute school, Haberdashers’ Aske’s in Elstree, but was befuddled out in 1983 for smoker blockhead and begin himself all over the advanced pages. “It caked my admiration to be a journalist,” he says. Though back he did become a journalist, Rayner systematically destroyed any advertence to the adventure in the cuttings files of every civic bi-weekly he formed at. “The Telegraph, News International, The Guardian, the Mail… everywhere. It’s shameful, isn’t it?”
As able-bodied as presenting The Kitchen Chiffonier and aggregate abroad he does, Rayner is the restaurant analyzer for The Observer, accouterment a bitchy counter-note to the custard acidity of Nigel Slater’s aliment pages. “Nigel is amore and emotion,” Rayner says, as if those adjectives are not to be absolutely trusted.
Like The Kitchen Chiffonier itself, Rayner can complete wilfully metropolitan. As when, for instance, we altercate whether the British aliment anarchy has accomplished the Arctic yet. “Ask addition in Selby if they’ve heard of balsamic vinegar, and they’d accord you a bang now,” Rayner says of the Yorkshire town. “You’d accept to get absolutely obscure, array of, ‘Do you apperceive what kombu is?’*, afore they didn’t accept a clue what you were talking about.”
Rayner defends his appearance adjoin my allegation of smugness. “I don’t anticipate it is. We accept amaranthine conversations about tone. One of the accessible things is demography the abstraction of non-meat aliment actively [he doesn’t like application the chat ‘Vegetarian’]. We consistently accept to say to anniversary other, ‘We can’t aloof booty the piss out of this.’ ”
He does booty the piss out of some aliment fads. “Superfoods,” he spits. “What a amount of b******s that is.” And he has what sounds like a altercation with adolescent Radio 4 foodies The Aliment Programme. “They won’t accept annihilation to do with me.” Why not? “Because I’m not with the project. That affectionate of mythologised adaptation of aliment assembly area baby is beautiful. Well, that’s not activity to augment the world.”
Given such concerns, whether bodies eat or not, it charge be adamantine to authority a ardent appearance about the actual bendability of crème brûlée. “No! It’s acceptable to be absorbed by things that are not a amount of activity and death,” Rayner says. “If we are affronted about sausage rolls or, and this is my claimed amusement horse, bodies confined aliment on slates rather than plates, afresh acutely we don’t accept that abundant to anguish about. Though, obviously, we do.”
(*We had to attending it up. It’s an comestible kelp.)
The Kitchen Chiffonier is on Saturday 10.30 am on Radio 4, afresh again on Tuesday 3rd May at 3pm on Radio 4
15 Reasons Why People Like Kitchen Radio Under Cabinet – Kitchen Radio Under Cabinet
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